“He’s easily one of the most talented chefs in this city right now,” says Animal’s Jon Shook
“Dano Heinze is easily one of the most talented guys in this city right now,” says chef Jon Shook, who, along with his partner, Vinny Dotolo, runs some of L.A.’s most revered restaurants, including Animal and Son of a Gun. Shook and Dotolo’s faith in Heinze is so strong that, when the culinary talent decided to leave his post as chef de cuisine under chef Sean Brock at the esteemed Charleston, S.C., fine-dining establishment McCrady’s, the duo offered to introduce him to the L.A. restaurant world. The result: Heinze’s buzzy ongoing pop-up dinner residency at Trois Familia, Shook and Dotolo’s daytime French- and Mexican-influenced Silver Lake eatery in collaboration with chef Ludo Lefebvre. Every week, on evenings from Thursday through Saturday, Heinze crafts a three-course prix fixe menu, dictated by his fresh-fare finds from the Santa Monica Farmers Market. “It’s really easy to cook in California,” says Heinze. “The vegetables are so good, you don’t really have to do much to them.” His Technicolor dishes (beets infused with barley, kale, radicchio and yogurt; cured salmon garnished with citrus, sesame and dill) are as flavorful as they are creative: Heinze honed his eye for plating while building McCrady’s inventive tasting menus. “His food is simply gorgeous and delicious,” agrees Shook. “I want to get into more casual food, with a more fun atmosphere,” says Heinze, who was inspired to move to L.A. in part by the burgeoning and multicultural dining landscape. He has designs on eventually opening his own L.A. restaurant. For now, Heinze says, “I’m just experimenting with what works.” Trois Familia, 3510 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323-725-7800; resy.com.
Written by LESLEY McKENZIE